The public is invited to a Douglas-fir tussock moth and bark beetle informational session at the Big Bear Civic Center on December 8.
U.S. Forest Service and CalFire entomologists are presenting information on the tussock moth infestation and a seasonal update on bark beetle activity in the Big Bear valley. Entomologists and foresters will be providing information for residents that may have tree species susceptible to tussock moth such as Blue Spruce and Douglas-fir.
When: Wednesday, December 8 2010: Time: 10 am to 10:45 am,
Location: Big Bear Civic Center – Hofert Hall, 39707 Big Bear Blvd. Big Bear Lake, CA
http://www.citybigbearlake.com/
Showing posts with label Big Bear Homes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Big Bear Homes. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Friday, September 3, 2010
Big Bear Decks, Outdoor Living at Its Finest
[UPDATE: This story ran in Big Bear Magazine in the Spring of 96’, certain information has been changed, including names, phone numbers and building regulations pertaining to the Big Bear Lake area. Jim Miller, Director of Building and Safety, (909) 866-5831, informed us that there is now a standard deck plan (280 sq. ft.), available through the BBL Building & Safety office.]
With an average of 300 days of sunshine annually in the Big Bear Valley, decks are considered by many as an extra room, just for entertainment and relaxation.
RIFFENBURGH LUMBER, (909) 866-4675, told us deck season starts mid-to-late April, and “really cranks” in the summer months of Big Bear. Redwood has been by far the most common choice for deck surfaces.
There are also several products on the market, designed for specific deck applications. Tufflex is a urethane propeller textured finish that can be applied over plywood. The product is applied in a 4-step process, and must be installed by an authorized installer. Big Bears’ installer, PRO-FORMANCE CO., (909) 866-3042, says the product is often used in commercial settings, but also is very successfully used in residential settings, as a water-tight coating when the area under the deck needs to be kept water-tight. Depending on the weather conditions, application is usually a fairly simple process, taking only 3 to 4 days for the average deck.
“Trex” is a wood-polymer lumber, available at lumber retailer, BUTCHER’S BLOCK AND BUILDING MATERIAL, (909) 866-5761. Bob Butcher told us the product had been on the market about 6 years, and he saw some definite advantages for a high maintenance area like Big Bear. It doesn’t split like wood, won’t rot or be damaged from moisture and the high UV rays will not effect the surface. One of the biggest advantages for an area like Big Bear – no more staining and no more sanding. No more maintenance! The trade off is the upfront additional cost, and the additional cost of installation. While the boards can be easily cut with a saw, surface boards must be drilled and then screwed to framing lumber. Bob said the product could not span as far as redwood, which means additional framing as well.
He saw the product used very successfully for boat docks in the Big Bear area, and could also see the popularity of the product beginning to grow.
Big Bear weather conditions necessitate a few different considerations than you might need in a more tepid climate. First, deck boards should always be screwed to the framing, using a galvanized deck screw. A quality, galvanized deck screw won’t bleed or easily break. Winter months often require shoveling snow of the deck, and nails are easily pulled up during this process. Also, in designing your handrail, make sure a space below will allow an area to push snow through, during those snow-shoveling months.
Since the 1992 earthquake, codes in Big Bear are strictly enforced for decks, according to John F. Acosta, III, AIA, and licensed architect. (909) 585-6311. He’s seeing more decks coming in for engineering – especially tall and large decks. There are many variables that will effect plans for your deck – the height, size, and shape for certain. Plus, the existing structure the deck will attach itself to must also be evaluated for the additional load.
Building a deck has become quite a bit more complicated than in the past years, and John has seen an increase in demand for his services in deck designing and engineering. Presently, about 50% of his deck business comes right through the homeowner, and 50% through contractors. But whether you are a handy do-it-yourselfer, or hire a contractor to build your deck, all plans now require a California architect/engineer stamp and signature.
If you’ve been considering adding a deck, there are several requirements through Building and Safety you need to know. First, any deck 30” or more above grade will require permits. Guardrails will also be required for decks over 30’.
To submit plans through Building & Safety, City of Big Bear Lake, (909) 866-5831 – They are happy to assist and answer any question. You’ll need:
A. A copy of deed for verification of ownership and easements.
B. One set of plans drawn to scale, comprised of a plot plan (showing existing structures and deck addition), for the County Assessor.
C. Three complete sets of plans drawn to scale, which include your project description, legal description, names, addresses and telephone numbers of the record owner, applicant and the person preparing the map; North orientation; location, width, names of streets and recorded easements on property; square footage of lot, footprint, and total percent of lot coverage; location, size and use of all existing and proposed buildings (call out sq ft. separately for your deck); including dimensions, sq. ft and distance from property lines; location size and species of all existing trees with 6” or greater diameter at breast height, clearly marking all trees proposed for removal “to be removed”; and topography including drainage, erosion control and grading.
D. A foundation plan with related details, showing wood size and method of attachment.
E. A property survey may be required.
F. The city will also require a “pre site inspection”.
If a licensed contractor will be building your deck, Big Bear Lake Building and Safety will need a copy of the signed contract, and verification of active status with the California State License Board, as well as a city business license. If the contractor has employees, he must provide Workers comp. insurance.
Big Bear has a large community of licensed general contractors, experienced and qualified in building decks. Take the time to select a contractor with whom you can communicate. Look at some of the work that has been done by the contractor you choose. Make sure your agreement and contract is fully specified, and in writing. Check references. And always, check the status of the contractor you hire by calling the Contractors Board’s Automated system at (800) 321-2752. In California, the Contractors State license board must license any contractor performing a job in which the total cost of the project including labor & materials is over $500.
Prior to any construction, “ Dig Alert”, an underground service alert should be called at 811. Underground utilities are buried everywhere, often where you least expect them. This no charge service alerts all utilities BEFORE you do any digging. Normally, they can respond within 48 hours. Failure to obtain proper identification of underground utilities is a violation of California law and could result in substantial fines and repair bills.
Big Bear decks need to be sealed properly to protect the top surface from our harsh weather conditions and high UV rays. Paint is never recommended for the surface of your Big Bear deck.
(Note: Since this was originally written, Bob Butcher, well known and respected owner of Butcher’s Block passed away, and the company is being run by son Glen Butcher.)
Monday, August 30, 2010
Top 10 Woodburning Tips from CSIA
Every year Big Bear experiences unnecessary and preventable chimney fires. T
To aid in the prevention of chimney fires and carbon monoxide intrusion and to help keep heating appliances and fireplaces functioning properly, the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) offers the following safety tips:
1. Get an annual chimney check. Have chimneys inspected annually, and cleaned as necessary, by a qualified professional chimney service technician. This reduces the risk of fires and carbon monoxide poisonings due to creosote buildup or obstructions in the chimneys.
2. Keep it clear. Keep tree branches and leaves at least 15 feet away from the top of the chimney.
3. Install a chimney cap to keep debris and animals out of the chimney.
4. Choose the right fuel. For burning firewood in wood stoves or fireplaces, choose well-seasoned wood that has been split for a minimum of six months - one year and stored in a covered and elevated location. Never burn Christmas trees or treated wood in your fireplace or wood stove.
5. Build it right. Place firewood or firelogs at the rear of the fireplace on a supporting grate. To start the fire, use kindling or a commercial firelighter. Never use flammable liquids.
6. Keep the hearth area clear. Combustible material too close to the fireplace, or to a wood stove, could easily catch fire. Keep furniture at least 36” away from the hearth.
7. Use a fireplace screen. Use metal mesh or a screen in front of the fireplace to catch flying sparks that could ignite or burn holes in the carpet or flooring.
8. Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Place detectors throughout the house and check batteries in the spring and fall. When you change your clocks for Daylight Savings Time, remember to check your batteries.
9. Never leave a fire unattended. Before turning in for the evening, be sure that the fire is fully extinguished. Supervise children and pets closely around wood stoves and fireplaces.
10. The CSIA recommends annual inspections performed by CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps. These chimney sweeps have earned the industry's most respected credential by passing an intensive examination based on fire codes, clearances and standards for the construction and maintenance of chimney and venting systems. The National Fire Protection Association also recommends that all chimneys are inspected on an annual basis.
Used with permission from the Chimney Safety Institute of America (www.CSIA.org).
To aid in the prevention of chimney fires and carbon monoxide intrusion and to help keep heating appliances and fireplaces functioning properly, the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) offers the following safety tips:
1. Get an annual chimney check. Have chimneys inspected annually, and cleaned as necessary, by a qualified professional chimney service technician. This reduces the risk of fires and carbon monoxide poisonings due to creosote buildup or obstructions in the chimneys.
2. Keep it clear. Keep tree branches and leaves at least 15 feet away from the top of the chimney.
3. Install a chimney cap to keep debris and animals out of the chimney.
4. Choose the right fuel. For burning firewood in wood stoves or fireplaces, choose well-seasoned wood that has been split for a minimum of six months - one year and stored in a covered and elevated location. Never burn Christmas trees or treated wood in your fireplace or wood stove.
5. Build it right. Place firewood or firelogs at the rear of the fireplace on a supporting grate. To start the fire, use kindling or a commercial firelighter. Never use flammable liquids.
6. Keep the hearth area clear. Combustible material too close to the fireplace, or to a wood stove, could easily catch fire. Keep furniture at least 36” away from the hearth.
7. Use a fireplace screen. Use metal mesh or a screen in front of the fireplace to catch flying sparks that could ignite or burn holes in the carpet or flooring.
8. Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Place detectors throughout the house and check batteries in the spring and fall. When you change your clocks for Daylight Savings Time, remember to check your batteries.
9. Never leave a fire unattended. Before turning in for the evening, be sure that the fire is fully extinguished. Supervise children and pets closely around wood stoves and fireplaces.
10. The CSIA recommends annual inspections performed by CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps. These chimney sweeps have earned the industry's most respected credential by passing an intensive examination based on fire codes, clearances and standards for the construction and maintenance of chimney and venting systems. The National Fire Protection Association also recommends that all chimneys are inspected on an annual basis.
Used with permission from the Chimney Safety Institute of America (www.CSIA.org).
Hiring A Contractor.
Hiring A Contractor. Reprinted from the archives of Big Bear Magazine. © 2005 Big Bear Magazine.
Questions & Answers Question: We are in the process of hiring a contractor in Big Bear, for various home improvements, and we want to make sure he's legitimate. What do we look for? How do we protect ourselves?
Every licensed contractor carries a "pocket license," or "pocket ID," which identifies the individual contractor, or the business name under which the contractor is working. In California, any job that costs $600 or more MUST be performed by a contractor who holds a current, valid license.
According to the CALIFORNIA STATE LICENSE BOARD, unlicensed contractors, who may present a lower bid, and talk you into being your own general contractor, or "Owner/ Builder," may be doing you no favor. YOU, not the person you hire, assume responsibility for the overall job, which includes such things as state and federal taxes, workers compensation, and other legal liabilities." Should you have a complaint or not be satisfied with your project, you have very little legal re¬course with unlicensed individuals.
When you hire a licensed professional to handle your project, you hire a person or company experienced in building, as well as the business of construction. You also have the backing of the CALIFORNIA STATE LICENSE BOARD to assist if problems arise.
Contractors may not work under an¬other person's license. That would be the same scenario as someone driving under another person's driver’s license. Not legal, not valid.delete that contractor from your list of professionals! Make sure the license you see belongs to the person you hire!
Always take the time to verify the status of the license. A license number does not verify its validity. You can easily check this by calling the CONTRACTORS STATE LICENSE BOARD at 800-321-2752, or visiting www.cslb.com. Take the time to check your contractor and you will avoid problems down the line.
Before you begin any remodeling project, have a contract, in writing that clearly specifies the work to be done by your contractor.
In almost all cases, the law requires a contractor to give you “written notice of your right to cancel a contract within three business days of signing it.” According to the CSLB, you should “use these three days to review the contract again.” If something bothers you, the time to discuss it with your contractor is now, not after the work begins.
Check that your scope of work is specified completely. For example, if the contractor is to "supply and install" your faucet, make sure this is in writing. If your contractor will "install" a client- supplied faucet, make sure that is also in writing. Remember, the contract is your job outline, and it should detail exactly what will happen with your project, and who will supply what items.
Make sure your contract includes everything you feel is important to the job including complete clean-up and removal of debris and materials, and special requests like saving lumber for firewood or saving certain materials or appliances.
Finally, make sure your payment schedule is included in your contract, up front. California law requires that "the amount of down payment for any home improvement contract may not exceed $1,000 or ten percent of the contract price, whichever is less." Make sure additional payments do not get ahead of the contractor's work.
For example, payments for a new garage might read: Completion of grading, completion of slab, completion of framing, completion of electrical, etc. The entire schedule, with exact amounts owing, should be spelled out and signed off by the homeowner. Your contract should "clearly state your final agreement and accurately reflect everything involved in the work being done by your contractor." And as with any legal contract, it must also include the name, physical address and license number of the contractor.
© 2005 HomeWork
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Tips for Painting Your Big Bear House
From the archives of Big Bear Magazine, 2005, Written by Chris Fonda
It’s a scene some of us are all too familiar with: our living space suddenly becomes invaded with plastic drop-cloths, ladders, paint cans, and paint brushes. Sometimes, the phrase, “What was I thinking?” can be heard coming from the homeowners mouth if you listen carefully enough. But with a little planning and know-how, painting your house can be a rewarding experience.
There is a lot more to painting your house than just picking out a color and brushing it in. In fact, you should think of your house’s paint the same way that you think of your clothes. Why? We all know that our clothes do more than just make us look good. They protect us from the elements, they help keep us warm or cool, and they can make us look good too. In Big Bear, we have some unique challenges to keep in mind if you’re thinking about dressing up the outside of you’re home. At nearly 7000 feet above sea level, the sun’s rays are much more intense, which can cause paint to blister and crack prematurely. Secondly, there is the fluctuating day and night temperatures to contend with. A 75 degree daytime temperature typically plummets into the 40’s at night. Next, you must contend with the snow and rain from time to time as we’ve seen this winter. And lastly, don’t forget about the dry, desert-like air.
So, let’s start with the biggest decision you’ll have to make: Should you attempt to do it yourself, or should you hire a professional? “I get a lot of calls from people who realize in mid-project that they have taken on more than they can realistically handle,” says Robert Critelli, Critelli Painting. It all depends on your budget, timeline, and how good you are at juggling a paint brush on a ladder thirty-five feet above the screwdriver that you need to open the paint can in your hands. All of the professionals consulted with agreed on one point here: An experienced painter will almost always do a more thorough job than doing it DIY. After all, it’s what they do day in and day out – paint. A more thorough job will result in a longer lasting paint job. Chuck Juliana, owner of Chuck’s Painting says that, “You can usually count on getting four to six years out of a quality paint job at this elevation compared to eight to 10 years down the hill. For this reason, you’ll want to use a really high quality product. Don’t look to save money on your paint, you’ll almost always regret it,” he adds.
“Preparation is the single most important element in ensuring a good finish,” Juliana says. “Before lifting a brush, the end result is greatly affected by the way you prep the house. You’ll want to remove any cracked or peeling paint first. A putty knife and a sander will work fine for most jobs. You don’t have to sand your entire house, just hit the spots that are obviously damaged,” Juliana adds.
If you don’t address these spots and just paint over them, they will continue to crack and peel underneath the newly applied paint. This is where you need to really take a close look at your house. Look for nail holes that might need to be filled in with caulking or wood putty and places where the old paint has lifted up and peeled. The south side of the house is usually a good candidate for cracking and peeling paint since it receives the most direct sunlight. A damp cloth should be used to remove any dust left behind from sanding. It’s also a good idea to use a high quality exterior grade caulk to fill in any holes and cracks in the wood. Just apply the caulking directly to the crack or hole, and wipe it smooth with your finger. This would be a good time to check the caulking on your windows and doors too. With time, the caulking wears away and gaps form letting cold air into the house and warm air out.
Next, you’ll want to use a high quality primer to cover the areas where you sanded and chipped away at the old paint. Again, you don’t need to prime the entire house, just the spots where you sanded and caulked. This step acts as a sealer. The primer seals in all of that hard work that you just did sanding, and scrapping and caulking. In Big Bear, most professionals use oil base primer with latex paint over it.
At this point, your house should look somewhat like it has a bad case of the chicken pox. And, as tempting as it might be to just leave it like that, there’s just one last step – painting. “When you’re done with the prep work, you’re ready to start painting. Start from the top of the house and work your way down,” says Critelli. “Make sure that you’re honest with yourself at this point. If the prep work was overwhelming, you might want to consider having a professional estimate.”
All of the professional painters agreed that it’s worth putting two coats of paint on the exterior. There are many ways to apply paint. A brush and roller is the most popular method for DIY homeowners, but spray applicators work well and can save time too. Whichever way you choose, start by brushing in the trim (the top, bottom and corners.) Make sure that you apply the paint generously enough to soak into the wood evenly. “One thing you’ll want to keep in mind is that you want to paint some of the more difficult areas of the house along with some of the easier spots,” says Critelli. “If you do all of the easy painting first then you’re left with all of the tough spots, people tend to get discouraged at that point.”
If you’re planning on staining your deck at the same time, here are a few pointers. As with painting, preparation is important. You’ll want to use a power washer to remove any moss or mildew from the decking boards. You can also purchase chemical washing agents that will remove everything, including the old stain. Once the deck is cleaned up, you’ll want to again apply a high quality deck stain – don’t go cheap here!
So, either grab a brush or grab the phone this summer and give your house a new look!
© 2005 Big Bear Magazine
It’s a scene some of us are all too familiar with: our living space suddenly becomes invaded with plastic drop-cloths, ladders, paint cans, and paint brushes. Sometimes, the phrase, “What was I thinking?” can be heard coming from the homeowners mouth if you listen carefully enough. But with a little planning and know-how, painting your house can be a rewarding experience.
There is a lot more to painting your house than just picking out a color and brushing it in. In fact, you should think of your house’s paint the same way that you think of your clothes. Why? We all know that our clothes do more than just make us look good. They protect us from the elements, they help keep us warm or cool, and they can make us look good too. In Big Bear, we have some unique challenges to keep in mind if you’re thinking about dressing up the outside of you’re home. At nearly 7000 feet above sea level, the sun’s rays are much more intense, which can cause paint to blister and crack prematurely. Secondly, there is the fluctuating day and night temperatures to contend with. A 75 degree daytime temperature typically plummets into the 40’s at night. Next, you must contend with the snow and rain from time to time as we’ve seen this winter. And lastly, don’t forget about the dry, desert-like air.
So, let’s start with the biggest decision you’ll have to make: Should you attempt to do it yourself, or should you hire a professional? “I get a lot of calls from people who realize in mid-project that they have taken on more than they can realistically handle,” says Robert Critelli, Critelli Painting. It all depends on your budget, timeline, and how good you are at juggling a paint brush on a ladder thirty-five feet above the screwdriver that you need to open the paint can in your hands. All of the professionals consulted with agreed on one point here: An experienced painter will almost always do a more thorough job than doing it DIY. After all, it’s what they do day in and day out – paint. A more thorough job will result in a longer lasting paint job. Chuck Juliana, owner of Chuck’s Painting says that, “You can usually count on getting four to six years out of a quality paint job at this elevation compared to eight to 10 years down the hill. For this reason, you’ll want to use a really high quality product. Don’t look to save money on your paint, you’ll almost always regret it,” he adds.
“Preparation is the single most important element in ensuring a good finish,” Juliana says. “Before lifting a brush, the end result is greatly affected by the way you prep the house. You’ll want to remove any cracked or peeling paint first. A putty knife and a sander will work fine for most jobs. You don’t have to sand your entire house, just hit the spots that are obviously damaged,” Juliana adds.
If you don’t address these spots and just paint over them, they will continue to crack and peel underneath the newly applied paint. This is where you need to really take a close look at your house. Look for nail holes that might need to be filled in with caulking or wood putty and places where the old paint has lifted up and peeled. The south side of the house is usually a good candidate for cracking and peeling paint since it receives the most direct sunlight. A damp cloth should be used to remove any dust left behind from sanding. It’s also a good idea to use a high quality exterior grade caulk to fill in any holes and cracks in the wood. Just apply the caulking directly to the crack or hole, and wipe it smooth with your finger. This would be a good time to check the caulking on your windows and doors too. With time, the caulking wears away and gaps form letting cold air into the house and warm air out.
Next, you’ll want to use a high quality primer to cover the areas where you sanded and chipped away at the old paint. Again, you don’t need to prime the entire house, just the spots where you sanded and caulked. This step acts as a sealer. The primer seals in all of that hard work that you just did sanding, and scrapping and caulking. In Big Bear, most professionals use oil base primer with latex paint over it.
At this point, your house should look somewhat like it has a bad case of the chicken pox. And, as tempting as it might be to just leave it like that, there’s just one last step – painting. “When you’re done with the prep work, you’re ready to start painting. Start from the top of the house and work your way down,” says Critelli. “Make sure that you’re honest with yourself at this point. If the prep work was overwhelming, you might want to consider having a professional estimate.”
All of the professional painters agreed that it’s worth putting two coats of paint on the exterior. There are many ways to apply paint. A brush and roller is the most popular method for DIY homeowners, but spray applicators work well and can save time too. Whichever way you choose, start by brushing in the trim (the top, bottom and corners.) Make sure that you apply the paint generously enough to soak into the wood evenly. “One thing you’ll want to keep in mind is that you want to paint some of the more difficult areas of the house along with some of the easier spots,” says Critelli. “If you do all of the easy painting first then you’re left with all of the tough spots, people tend to get discouraged at that point.”
If you’re planning on staining your deck at the same time, here are a few pointers. As with painting, preparation is important. You’ll want to use a power washer to remove any moss or mildew from the decking boards. You can also purchase chemical washing agents that will remove everything, including the old stain. Once the deck is cleaned up, you’ll want to again apply a high quality deck stain – don’t go cheap here!
So, either grab a brush or grab the phone this summer and give your house a new look!
© 2005 Big Bear Magazine
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Dear Home Work: When we have heavy snows, our roof doesn't totally melt, and an ice dam forms in two areas. Now we are getting leaks through the ceiling. How do we fix this?
Ice dams are caused when heat from the house begins warming the bottom of the snow on the roof. The melting snow runs down the house, until it reaches an area that doesn't receive any heat - like a porch, over¬hang, or eaves. That snow remains frozen, and the melting snow gath¬ers, refreezes, and creates an ice dam.
The melt behind the ice dam backs up until the water finds a way through the shingles, tar paper, sheathing, insulation and drywall. It's not long before cold water begins dripping through the ceiling, and you have a major mess, with major potential damage.
Prevention, of course, is always the most successful way of avoiding ice dams. Good design in snow areas (no flat roofs, steeper angles), prevents the problem. You want the snow to run off the roof, not stay there. Metal roofs are virtually maintenance free from this type of problem.
If it's time to re-roof, and you choose shingles, have your roofer install a rubberized membrane ice and water shield before the shingles go down, on the effected areas. Use this rubberized membrane in all the valleys of the roof as well.
Short of re-roofing, there are sev¬eral options to consider. Make sure the attic (or rafter space if it's a cathedral ceiling) has enough insula¬tion for Big Bear. Ventilate the attic properly. (We've noticed many properties in Big Bear do not venti¬late the attic, but instead try to keep the warm attic, air tight. This may be a trade-off you need to consider). Insulation and ventilation will keep the heat away from the roof and pre¬vent the snow from melting - and in many cases alleviate the ice dam problem.
Another possibility is to install heat coils in a zig-zag pattern over the area above the eaves. This will heat the area and let the snow run off the roof. However, if the electricity goes out, or the coils are broken, the system won't work , but the ice dams still will.
Ice dams are caused when heat from the house begins warming the bottom of the snow on the roof. The melting snow runs down the house, until it reaches an area that doesn't receive any heat - like a porch, over¬hang, or eaves. That snow remains frozen, and the melting snow gath¬ers, refreezes, and creates an ice dam.
The melt behind the ice dam backs up until the water finds a way through the shingles, tar paper, sheathing, insulation and drywall. It's not long before cold water begins dripping through the ceiling, and you have a major mess, with major potential damage.
Prevention, of course, is always the most successful way of avoiding ice dams. Good design in snow areas (no flat roofs, steeper angles), prevents the problem. You want the snow to run off the roof, not stay there. Metal roofs are virtually maintenance free from this type of problem.
If it's time to re-roof, and you choose shingles, have your roofer install a rubberized membrane ice and water shield before the shingles go down, on the effected areas. Use this rubberized membrane in all the valleys of the roof as well.
Short of re-roofing, there are sev¬eral options to consider. Make sure the attic (or rafter space if it's a cathedral ceiling) has enough insula¬tion for Big Bear. Ventilate the attic properly. (We've noticed many properties in Big Bear do not venti¬late the attic, but instead try to keep the warm attic, air tight. This may be a trade-off you need to consider). Insulation and ventilation will keep the heat away from the roof and pre¬vent the snow from melting - and in many cases alleviate the ice dam problem.
Another possibility is to install heat coils in a zig-zag pattern over the area above the eaves. This will heat the area and let the snow run off the roof. However, if the electricity goes out, or the coils are broken, the system won't work , but the ice dams still will.
Dear Home Work: I have a cabin that the homeowner finished himself The trim work is plain and the installation is not very well done. What can I do to jazz up the inside?
Take a good look at your present interior. If your cabin is an older, rustic-type home with much exposed wood, upgrading your doors and moldings can preserve and enhance that original look and charm. For newer homes, you can create that charm. Here are a few ideas to consider:
Interior Doors
If your inside doors are hollow, slab doors (flat), solid core raised panel doors are the most common upgrade. The doors are available in almost any wood, but you'll find fir and pine are popular and reasonably priced, and solid oak doors in the higher price range
It's usually recommended that the entire jam, door and moldings be replaced at the same time for the most successful project. By adding a bit larger molding to your new door, wall damage can usually be kept to a minimum, and you may avoid repainting or re-wallpapering the areas around the door.
Interior Windows
If you have aluminum windows, inset in drywall, you can add wood sills, sides and top, offset by new moldings, to create a custom looking window design. For older windows, new moldings alone may give you that new look.
Interior Moldings
Base moldings, case moldings (window and door), crown moldings, chair rail... they can be mixed and matched in numerous styles and woods. If your home is newer, and you have a standard small rounded molding, you'll be amazed at the difference and warmth crown molding and detailed base molding can add. If you plan on painting your molding, save dollars by purchasing "finger-joint" molding, rather than "clear" wood moldings required for staining.
Creating a wall
Want to really enhance a room or wall with paneling and moldings? A veneered wall of squares and rectangles, laid out with boards or plywood strips can be beautifully molded with raised moldings and create a look right out of a library or courtroom.
Closet Doors
Mirrored wardrobe bedroom doors can make a small cabin bedroom much brighter and larger looking. If you are replacing a similar size, you may be able to simply re-hang a standard size door. If you are
increasing the size, your contractor can usually re-frame your existing closet to accept the new door. Handrail and Banister systems Many older cabins have simple lumber for their stair systems, and they may not meet todays safety codes. In some cases, small children can fall through the existing spaces. New balusters and handrails can not only produce a new look, they can create a much safer environment.
The possibilities are simply endless when it comes to upgrading interiors with trim. Layout and installation are key elements to successful trim application. If you are an accomplished do-it-yourselfer, with the right tools for the job, it's a relatively easy project, but time consuming. If you're not, call a contractor qualified in finish and trim, for the job. You'll find a number of excellent choices during winter months in Big Bear, since much of the exterior work is slower due to weather conditions.
Dear Homework:
Our log home here in the
·
·Metal roofs are a natural for the
"Metal roofs are environmentally safe and sound, and supported by the EPA," he adds. Virtually maintenance free, they can be applied to any roof configuration, and come in a wide variety of colors."
Since residential applications are so popular in similar snow climate areas like
Your problem, (losing your vent pipe), is one of the disadvantages we've discovered. An experienced roofing contractor can climb on the roof for repairs, as long as they position their weight on the areas secured by screws - the ribs, and strongest areas of the roof.
To avoid future problems, there are several options. BIG BEAR SHEET METAL suggests creating a "snow plow", a V-Shaped heavy gauge metal, that is placed above the vent pipe, to help guide snow and water around piping. Depending on the position of your vent pipe, this may solve future problems.
VicWest Steel manufactures a special vinyl guard, with a rubber flanged bottom, that is positioned around vent and stove pipes, caulked and screwed directly to the roof, designed to hold pipes in place and water and snow out.
Check with your specific metal roof manufacturer, and they will probably have a similar system to coordinate with your brand of metal roof.
Dear Home Work: We have an older cabin, with older wooden windows that leak a lot of air. We aren't sure if we should replace them or not. Suggestions?
Your most cost-effective choice is to replace your wooden windows with custom fit,
aluminum dual pane windows, according to Craig Antes, owner, BEAR CITY GLASS (585-2037). "Replacing drafty single-panes with dual pane glass can dramatically increase, or even double your efficiency."
Antes says most Big Bear customers choose aluminum replacements due to cost. However, for those who want to keep the authentic look of their original cabin, wooden window replacements are also available. The tab for wooden windows is considerably higher, but wood is actually a much more efficient window than aluminum.
When you are able to remove and replace the frame holding the panes of glass in the window (the sash), without structural changes, you save a bundle on labor and repair. The time to insert the actual window is much less, plus you eliminate interior wall and molding repair and replacement, as well as exterior patchwork to siding. You also eliminate the need to repaint the inside and outside walls.
BEAR CITY GLASS says window replacements presently account for nearly a quarter of their business. It's definitely an option residents and 2nd homeowners are choosing to upgrade their home efficiency.
From the archives of Big Bear Magazine, January/February 1996© Big Bear Magazine. |
Fireplace or Wood Burning Stove?
Originally published in 1996, much remains the same. However, check with the latest information through our locally owned fireplace shops for any new or updated information.
t's still very much a matter of personal preference.
If you are looking for the traditional romance once available only through wood burning fireplaces, you may be happy to know the industry has made some major advancements these last few years.
For the classic, traditional fireplace supporter, however, nothing may replace the comforting glow of firelight and the crackling flames. In fact, according to Paul Geiger, GEIGER SUPPLY the trend several years ago was definitely toward atmosphere vs. heat. While Geiger still sells many fireplaces, primarily Zero Clearance units, he sees heat efficiency becoming more of a consideration. Today he often sees more combination purchasing - perhaps a traditional fireplace, but also a more efficient heating or woodburning stove unit.
For many of the older cabins and homes where a masonry fireplace has been such an important focal point, it may be hard to give up that important part of the home. In cases where the chimney has been damaged or cracked, but the firebox and interior face remain intact, Geiger offers an approved anchor plate, allowing replacement of the chimney with piping. Not only does this preserve the natural beauty of the original design, it can be a big cost saving factor in reconstructing an unsafe chimney
But, no matter how you look at it, traditional fireplaces do not provide efficient heating. In fact, it is estimated that between 80 to 100 percent of the heat it generates escapes, right through your chimney in traditional wood burning fireplaces.
So how do you keep that traditional fireplace and lower your heating bills? Lowell Wilson, SUMMIT FIREPLACE & PATIO suggests popular fireplace inserts in those cases.
Hearthwarming Magazine contents, "For maximum heating potential, choose a fireplace insert that extends out onto the hearth. Adding a thermostatically or manually-controlled blower can go a long way toward compensating for reduced heating capacity, because an insert is a bit lower in overall efficiency than a wood stove. But, adding a fireplace insert can boost a negative efficiency to well over 60 percent."
Traditional wood stoves seem to be the biggest seller today for those looking for both efficiency and charm. "Today's stoves are nothing like the black boxes of the 70's...From contemporary to country to classic, they define decor in dramatic style. Elegant options include viewing doors and trim of 24 karat gold plating or solid brass, or handcrafted etched glass to add dimension to the flames."
Brian Rogers, FIRESIDE SALES sees a newer trend toward gas stove units. Available as an insert unit or free standing, these units qualify as a wall heater in construction, and offer both cleanliness and romance. He sees gas stoves being used often in master suite additions and as an excellent alternative for seniors or individuals tired of hauling wood.
With a fan to circulate the heat, Brian contends the electricity is minimal, and your additional gas bill is usually under $30.00 per month.
You'll find numerous options available to heat your Big Bear home. Before you make any firm decisions about your situation, take time to talk with your Big Bear professionals in the area. Not only will you find them extremely knowledgeable about the options that work best in our climate, they can educate you about the new changes available in an extremely changing industry. From the archives of Big Bear Magazine, January/February 1996 © Big Bear Magazine
Monday, May 10, 2010
Maltby Siding - 1995
Dear Home Work:
We've recently purchased a home in Big Bear and want to make it look like a log cabin. We understand there is a popular siding called "Maltby" -- is "Maltby" siding still available?
We spoke with Tom Core, Big Bear's foremost authority on valley history, who was very familiar with Guy Maltby. (Tom Core passed away in 2006). He told us Mr. Maltby came to Big Bear in the 1920's, and simply fell in love with our valley. After a few different ventures, Maltby opened our first lumber yard, in the vicinity of the current Liquor Junction.
As the Valley grew, and the need for homes became apparent, Maltby got involved in the busilding business, and went on to build more than 500 homes and cabins. Most of these homes are covered in his trademark siding, and many of his originals still stand throughout the Valley.
Since no actual milling takes place in Big Bear, Maltby siding was specially milled, but imported from down the hill. Today, our local lumberyards are able to duplicate the original siding for repairs and replacement purposes, with custom milling, but it is cost prohibitive to custom mill siding for an entire home.
Today, most local builders and remodelers trying to reproduce the "look" of a rustic-type cabin or log cabin, lean towards the use of regular half-round logs, (mostly fir), which come to Big Bear from the Pacific Northwest areas. This siding is specially ordered on a per-job basis. Due to the cost again, the siding is often limited to key visual areas of the home, rather than complete covering of the home, as in the days of Maltby.
We've recently purchased a home in Big Bear and want to make it look like a log cabin. We understand there is a popular siding called "Maltby" -- is "Maltby" siding still available?
We spoke with Tom Core, Big Bear's foremost authority on valley history, who was very familiar with Guy Maltby. (Tom Core passed away in 2006). He told us Mr. Maltby came to Big Bear in the 1920's, and simply fell in love with our valley. After a few different ventures, Maltby opened our first lumber yard, in the vicinity of the current Liquor Junction.
As the Valley grew, and the need for homes became apparent, Maltby got involved in the busilding business, and went on to build more than 500 homes and cabins. Most of these homes are covered in his trademark siding, and many of his originals still stand throughout the Valley.
Since no actual milling takes place in Big Bear, Maltby siding was specially milled, but imported from down the hill. Today, our local lumberyards are able to duplicate the original siding for repairs and replacement purposes, with custom milling, but it is cost prohibitive to custom mill siding for an entire home.
Today, most local builders and remodelers trying to reproduce the "look" of a rustic-type cabin or log cabin, lean towards the use of regular half-round logs, (mostly fir), which come to Big Bear from the Pacific Northwest areas. This siding is specially ordered on a per-job basis. Due to the cost again, the siding is often limited to key visual areas of the home, rather than complete covering of the home, as in the days of Maltby.
Home & Garden - Older, drafty cabin - 1995
Dear Home Work:
I've got an older, drafty cabin that needs some attention. Winters seem awfully cold. Air leaks from the windows, even through cracks in the walls. The doors leak a tremendous amount of air. Help!!
In acquiring an older cabin, you've most probably captured a charm that is not available in some of our newer structures. But, we've come a long way with building procedures and new materials that are now standard procedure, that allow us to create a much more energy efficient home.
A few things you may consider to assist in creating your home as an air-tight unit - keeping your heat inside and the cold air outside.
WEATHER STRIPPING - it's extremely important in our area, where winter temperatures may drop even below the teens. Basically, weather strips are thin, linear materials placed between doors and windows, and their jambs to prevent air leakage. Weather strips seal operable joints, and should never be painted. Any good contractor can easily install the product, but it's also a simple do-it-yourself project that will help your drafty situation.
WINDOWS - if yours are the old wooden, single pane type, you may want to consider replacement. Bear City Glass offers simple-to-install storm windows that fit inside the house, on your window sill, as well as traditional storm windows for the exterior of your home.
WINDOW COVERINGS - Ellie Ferguson, Haus & Home Interiors, suggests new window coverings now available on the market can effectively decrease the transmission of heat or cold through old or new windows. A new cellular pleated shade design (honeycomb), available through numerous manufacturers is an extremely efficient covering for our colder climate.
INSULATION - additional insulation can be blown in, or bats can be laid in the attic area as well as under the floor, depending on accessibility. With insulation, you create a higher "R-Value" (resistance to heat flow). Adding insulation is often needed in older cabins.
FIREPLACE DAMPER - If you don't use your fireplace much, or are a 2nd homeowner, Rosie Hinojos, SW Gas, reminds you to close the damper to keep your warm air from escaping out the chimney.
CAULKING - for obvious cracks and flaws in older siding and cabins - fill the holes with caulking or foam. There are many types of fillers available for different applications. Check out our local lumber yards for the right materials for your project.
I've got an older, drafty cabin that needs some attention. Winters seem awfully cold. Air leaks from the windows, even through cracks in the walls. The doors leak a tremendous amount of air. Help!!
In acquiring an older cabin, you've most probably captured a charm that is not available in some of our newer structures. But, we've come a long way with building procedures and new materials that are now standard procedure, that allow us to create a much more energy efficient home.
A few things you may consider to assist in creating your home as an air-tight unit - keeping your heat inside and the cold air outside.
WEATHER STRIPPING - it's extremely important in our area, where winter temperatures may drop even below the teens. Basically, weather strips are thin, linear materials placed between doors and windows, and their jambs to prevent air leakage. Weather strips seal operable joints, and should never be painted. Any good contractor can easily install the product, but it's also a simple do-it-yourself project that will help your drafty situation.
WINDOWS - if yours are the old wooden, single pane type, you may want to consider replacement. Bear City Glass offers simple-to-install storm windows that fit inside the house, on your window sill, as well as traditional storm windows for the exterior of your home.
WINDOW COVERINGS - Ellie Ferguson, Haus & Home Interiors, suggests new window coverings now available on the market can effectively decrease the transmission of heat or cold through old or new windows. A new cellular pleated shade design (honeycomb), available through numerous manufacturers is an extremely efficient covering for our colder climate.
INSULATION - additional insulation can be blown in, or bats can be laid in the attic area as well as under the floor, depending on accessibility. With insulation, you create a higher "R-Value" (resistance to heat flow). Adding insulation is often needed in older cabins.
FIREPLACE DAMPER - If you don't use your fireplace much, or are a 2nd homeowner, Rosie Hinojos, SW Gas, reminds you to close the damper to keep your warm air from escaping out the chimney.
CAULKING - for obvious cracks and flaws in older siding and cabins - fill the holes with caulking or foam. There are many types of fillers available for different applications. Check out our local lumber yards for the right materials for your project.
Windows in your cabin - 1995
Dear Home Work:
We have an older cabin with older wooden windows that leak a lot of air. We aren't sure if we should replace them or not. Suggestions?
Your most cost-effective choice is to replace your wooden windows with custom fit, aluminum dual pane windows, according to Craig Antes, owner Bear City Glass. "Replacing drafty single-panes with dual pane glass can dramatically increase, or even double your efficiency."
Antes says mot Big Bear customers choose aluminum replacements due to cost. However, for those who want to keep the authentic look of their original cabin, wooden window replacements are also available. The tab for wooden windows is considerably higher, but wood is actually a much more efficient window than aluminum.
When you are able to remove and replace the frame holding the panes of glass in the window (the sash), without structural changes, you save a bundle on labor and repair. The time to insert the actual window is much less, plus you eliminate interior wall and molding repair and replacement, as well as exterior patchwork to siding. You also eliminate the need to repaint the inside and outside walls.
Bear City Glass says window replacements presently account for nearly a quarter of their business. It's definitely an option residents and 2nd homeowners are choosing to upgrade their home efficiency.
Friday, April 30, 2010
Home & Garden - Hiring Your Contractor 1995
Dear Home Work: We are in the process of hiring a contractor for various home improvements, and we want to make sure he's legitimate. What do we look for? How do we protect ourselves?
This is a story we ran in 1995, and we've updated it several times through different magazines. Much is the same, but the amount the requires the attention of a contractor has risen from $300 to $600, and you can now find the board at www.cslb.ca.gov
Every licensed contractor carries a "pocket license," or "pocket ID," which identifies the individual contractor othe the business name under which the contractor is working. In California, any job that costs $600 or more, must be performed by a contractor who holds a current, valid license.
According to the CALIFORNIA STATE LICENSE BOARD, an unlicensed contractor, who may present a lower bid, and talk you into being your own general contractor, or owner/builder, may be doing you no favor. YOU, not the person you hire, assume responsibility for the overall job, which includes such things as state and federal taxes, workers compensation, and other legal liabilities. Should you have a complaint or not be satisfied with your project, you have very little legal recourse with unlicensed individuals.
Contractors may not work under another person's license. That would be the same scenario as someone driving under another person's drivers license. Not legal, not valid... delete that contractor from your list of professionals! Make sure the license you see belongs to the person you hire!
Always take the time to verify the status of the license. A license number does not verify its validity. You can easily check this by calling the Contractors State License Board's Automated System at 1-800-321-2752. By simply entering the contractor's number, you can confirm your contractor is licensed, and currently in business, and properly bonded. If things don't check out, move on.
Before you begin any remodeling project, have a contract, in writing, that clearly specifies the work to be done by your contractor.
In almost all cases, the law requires a contractor to give you a "written notice of your right to cance a contract within three business days of signing it. According to the CSLB, you should "use these three days to review the contract again." If something bothers you, the time to discuss it with your contractor is now, not after the work begins.
Check that your scope of work is specified completely. For example, if the contractor is to "supply and install" your faucet, make sure that is also in writing. The contract is your job outline, and it should detail exactly what will happen with your project, and who will supply what items.
Make sure your contract includes everything you feel is important to the job, including complete clean-up and removal debris and materials, and special requests like saving lumber for firewood or saving certain materials or appliances.
Finally, make sure your payment schedule is included in your contract, up front. California law requires the amount of down payment for any home improvement contract may not exceed $1,000 or ten percent of the contract price, whichever is less." Make sure additional payments do not get ahead of the contractor's work.
For example, payments for a new garage might read: Completion of grading, completion of slab, completion of framing, completion of electrical, etc. The entire schedule, with exact amounts owing, should be spelled out and signed off by the homeowner. Any additions made by the homeowner or contractor, should be documented with an additional work order that clearly specifies the additional work and if there is any additional charge for the work.
As with any legal contract, it must also include the name, physical address and license number of the contractor.
Al & Barbara Scharnhorst
Foothill Builders Home Improvement Co.
August, 1995
This is a story we ran in 1995, and we've updated it several times through different magazines. Much is the same, but the amount the requires the attention of a contractor has risen from $300 to $600, and you can now find the board at www.cslb.ca.gov
Every licensed contractor carries a "pocket license," or "pocket ID," which identifies the individual contractor othe the business name under which the contractor is working. In California, any job that costs $600 or more, must be performed by a contractor who holds a current, valid license.
According to the CALIFORNIA STATE LICENSE BOARD, an unlicensed contractor, who may present a lower bid, and talk you into being your own general contractor, or owner/builder, may be doing you no favor. YOU, not the person you hire, assume responsibility for the overall job, which includes such things as state and federal taxes, workers compensation, and other legal liabilities. Should you have a complaint or not be satisfied with your project, you have very little legal recourse with unlicensed individuals.
Contractors may not work under another person's license. That would be the same scenario as someone driving under another person's drivers license. Not legal, not valid... delete that contractor from your list of professionals! Make sure the license you see belongs to the person you hire!
Always take the time to verify the status of the license. A license number does not verify its validity. You can easily check this by calling the Contractors State License Board's Automated System at 1-800-321-2752. By simply entering the contractor's number, you can confirm your contractor is licensed, and currently in business, and properly bonded. If things don't check out, move on.
Before you begin any remodeling project, have a contract, in writing, that clearly specifies the work to be done by your contractor.
In almost all cases, the law requires a contractor to give you a "written notice of your right to cance a contract within three business days of signing it. According to the CSLB, you should "use these three days to review the contract again." If something bothers you, the time to discuss it with your contractor is now, not after the work begins.
Check that your scope of work is specified completely. For example, if the contractor is to "supply and install" your faucet, make sure that is also in writing. The contract is your job outline, and it should detail exactly what will happen with your project, and who will supply what items.
Make sure your contract includes everything you feel is important to the job, including complete clean-up and removal debris and materials, and special requests like saving lumber for firewood or saving certain materials or appliances.
Finally, make sure your payment schedule is included in your contract, up front. California law requires the amount of down payment for any home improvement contract may not exceed $1,000 or ten percent of the contract price, whichever is less." Make sure additional payments do not get ahead of the contractor's work.
For example, payments for a new garage might read: Completion of grading, completion of slab, completion of framing, completion of electrical, etc. The entire schedule, with exact amounts owing, should be spelled out and signed off by the homeowner. Any additions made by the homeowner or contractor, should be documented with an additional work order that clearly specifies the additional work and if there is any additional charge for the work.
As with any legal contract, it must also include the name, physical address and license number of the contractor.
Al & Barbara Scharnhorst
Foothill Builders Home Improvement Co.
August, 1995
Home & Garden - Home Work
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Welcome to Home Work!
Welcome to our first issue of Home Work. This publication will answer some of the most commonly asked questions we've received throughout the year, regarding your Big Bear home.
Big Bear is a unique environment. Utilizing the local services and vendors included in this publication will almost always save you time, money and frustration. Local resources understand the local weather conditions and peculiarities.
In a resort town like Big Bear, a large percentage of the business population changes frequently. It is to your benefit to select businesses whose owners are committed to the community and dedicated to the Big Bear lifestyle.
Local vendors will assist you with your supply needs including quality paint products and building materials.
Al & Barbara Scharnhorst
In 1995, we began publishing Home Work, a series of questions and answers about remodeling and construction. While some of the businesses who originally advertised with us are no longer in Big Bear, some remarkably are still here, doing business with local and 2nd homeowners. As always, we encourage you to use local resources whenever possible. It has been a tough year for the country, and Big Bear is no exception.August, 1995
Welcome to Home Work!
Welcome to our first issue of Home Work. This publication will answer some of the most commonly asked questions we've received throughout the year, regarding your Big Bear home.
Big Bear is a unique environment. Utilizing the local services and vendors included in this publication will almost always save you time, money and frustration. Local resources understand the local weather conditions and peculiarities.
In a resort town like Big Bear, a large percentage of the business population changes frequently. It is to your benefit to select businesses whose owners are committed to the community and dedicated to the Big Bear lifestyle.
Local vendors will assist you with your supply needs including quality paint products and building materials.
Al & Barbara Scharnhorst
Monday, January 4, 2010
Home & Garden - Securing your property
Dear Readers:
(Jan/Feb 96)
"Big Bear crime for the most part, is a crime of opportunity," according to Sheriff's Captain Walt Hanson.
"We don't have tremendous spikes in crime that affect property owners. For the most part, we see burglaries, larceny or theft, and vandalism and malicious mischief. Some years are slightly higher, some years lower."
Valley-wide figures for 1993 saw the sheriffs office investigating 568 total burglaries, 684 larceny or theft calls, and 393 vandalism calls. 1994 figures for burglaries rose to 684, while larceny or theft dropped to 612 and vandalism dropped to 302.
Big Bear has a unique population breakdown - where only a third of our homeowners are permanent residents, two thirds are 2nd homeowners. The situation leaves many homes vacant and unoccupied for long periods of time, which can create opportunities for the criminal looking for the right situation. With literally millions of visitors arriving in Big Bear each year, Hanson suggests property owners take several steps to help prevent residential criminal activity.
"It always helps to be nosey." Hanson recommends you get to know your neighbors. If you are a 2nd homeowner, permanent residents will usually take the time to call if they see anything unusual happening at your home.
"The worst thing a 2nd homeowner can do is let their home sit dormant with no activity, for long periods of time."
Former Big Bear company Home Chek Services, owned by Jim & Linda Ackermann, offered routine inspections, maintenance and openings and closings for the 2nd homeowner. Jim always advised 2nd homeowners NOT to leave a spare key under the mat or in the electric box.
All Protection Alarm, still offers Big Bear homes alarmed protection, valley-wide, with the only monitoring station here in Big Bear.
Most agree it is definitely a wise idea to keep a key locally, if your home is not on a maintenance or security program, you may be able to leave a key with a neighbor, your contractor, even your Realtor. If you hide a key on the premises, be creative, and hide a key in an easily explainable location, but not an obvious spot.
It's hard to evaluate, but the posted signs from security and maintenance companies may in themselves offer a deterrent to the local or Big Bear visitor-type criminal.
Captain Hanson offered the four "D's" derived from the Neighborhood Watch Program.
1. Deter - noisy neighbors, children, dogs, citizen patrols, alarms, etc. Know your neighbors. (At this writing in 1995, Big Bear had an active Citizens Patrol, with more than 60 volunteer members, who donate of 10,000 hours per year, driving our streets and looking for unusual activity.)
2. Deny - Keep your doors and windows locked, including your garage door. Keep landscaping cut back from windows and entrance ways. Don't give criminals an easy target.
3. Delay - Make your home look "lived in" even if you are gone. Use timers for lights, radios, televisions. Have a neighbor pick up any newspapers. Park a neighbors car in the driveway.
4. Detect - report suspicious persons or activity. If your home looks like it has been burglarized, don't enter. Go to a neighbor's residence and call the police immediately.
"Often," Hanson admits, "we aren't going to catch criminals in progress." Make an inventory of your property - know exactly what items you have in your home." If you have a video camera, it's a good idea to tape your items and keep the tape in a safe place at your primary residence.
Big Bear 2nd homeowners are in a more vulnerable position, due to the fact that their homes lack consistent activity. It is worth acting on prevention of crime before your home becomes a target and you become a victim.
Barbara Scharnhorst, Publisher/Editor
(c) ABC Media and Promotions,Inc. Unauthorized duplication prohibited. All rights reserved
(Jan/Feb 96)
"Big Bear crime for the most part, is a crime of opportunity," according to Sheriff's Captain Walt Hanson.
"We don't have tremendous spikes in crime that affect property owners. For the most part, we see burglaries, larceny or theft, and vandalism and malicious mischief. Some years are slightly higher, some years lower."
Valley-wide figures for 1993 saw the sheriffs office investigating 568 total burglaries, 684 larceny or theft calls, and 393 vandalism calls. 1994 figures for burglaries rose to 684, while larceny or theft dropped to 612 and vandalism dropped to 302.
Big Bear has a unique population breakdown - where only a third of our homeowners are permanent residents, two thirds are 2nd homeowners. The situation leaves many homes vacant and unoccupied for long periods of time, which can create opportunities for the criminal looking for the right situation. With literally millions of visitors arriving in Big Bear each year, Hanson suggests property owners take several steps to help prevent residential criminal activity.
"It always helps to be nosey." Hanson recommends you get to know your neighbors. If you are a 2nd homeowner, permanent residents will usually take the time to call if they see anything unusual happening at your home.
"The worst thing a 2nd homeowner can do is let their home sit dormant with no activity, for long periods of time."
Former Big Bear company Home Chek Services, owned by Jim & Linda Ackermann, offered routine inspections, maintenance and openings and closings for the 2nd homeowner. Jim always advised 2nd homeowners NOT to leave a spare key under the mat or in the electric box.
All Protection Alarm, still offers Big Bear homes alarmed protection, valley-wide, with the only monitoring station here in Big Bear.
Most agree it is definitely a wise idea to keep a key locally, if your home is not on a maintenance or security program, you may be able to leave a key with a neighbor, your contractor, even your Realtor. If you hide a key on the premises, be creative, and hide a key in an easily explainable location, but not an obvious spot.
It's hard to evaluate, but the posted signs from security and maintenance companies may in themselves offer a deterrent to the local or Big Bear visitor-type criminal.
Captain Hanson offered the four "D's" derived from the Neighborhood Watch Program.
1. Deter - noisy neighbors, children, dogs, citizen patrols, alarms, etc. Know your neighbors. (At this writing in 1995, Big Bear had an active Citizens Patrol, with more than 60 volunteer members, who donate of 10,000 hours per year, driving our streets and looking for unusual activity.)
2. Deny - Keep your doors and windows locked, including your garage door. Keep landscaping cut back from windows and entrance ways. Don't give criminals an easy target.
3. Delay - Make your home look "lived in" even if you are gone. Use timers for lights, radios, televisions. Have a neighbor pick up any newspapers. Park a neighbors car in the driveway.
4. Detect - report suspicious persons or activity. If your home looks like it has been burglarized, don't enter. Go to a neighbor's residence and call the police immediately.
"Often," Hanson admits, "we aren't going to catch criminals in progress." Make an inventory of your property - know exactly what items you have in your home." If you have a video camera, it's a good idea to tape your items and keep the tape in a safe place at your primary residence.
Big Bear 2nd homeowners are in a more vulnerable position, due to the fact that their homes lack consistent activity. It is worth acting on prevention of crime before your home becomes a target and you become a victim.
Barbara Scharnhorst, Publisher/Editor
(c) ABC Media and Promotions,Inc. Unauthorized duplication prohibited. All rights reserved
Saturday, January 2, 2010
Home & Garden:(Big Bear Spas) Pampering Yourself
Dear Readers:
Ok, want to be honest here. Connecting all the social networking dots is still a challenge. Somehow I received a response to yesterdays blog, but now I'm having a hard time finding it and/or posting it so you all can read it. I'll continue looking.
Some of the names have changed, but this story is still very informative.
(Jan/Feb 1996) "People come to the mountains to get away... from the noise, the commotion..to relax." "A spa accelerates that relaxation process," according to Big Bear Spa Guy, Gary Crowe. "There is absolutely nothing better than sitting in your spa in the winter and snow."
"Swimming Pool/Spa Age reports the relationship between spas and spa clientel has grown from more than a mere infatuation in the late 1970s and early 1980s into a much deeper and more complicated relationship. "Aging baby boomers, now saddled with children, high stress jobs, mortgages and muscle pains, recognize spas as retreats where the weary can enjoy the stress-reducing effects of pulsating 100 degree water, soaking away at least some of the physical pains that accompany growing older."
Who are today's spa buyers? Patrick McCarthy, marketing director for Caldera Spas defines them internally as falling into two market segments - OPALS (Older People with Active Life Styles) and DINKS (Dual Income/No Kids.) Locally, Gary sees buyers from their late 20's into their 60's. The majority of Big Bear spa buyers are 2nd homeowners and often they are fairly new to the area. For new buyers to the area, a spa seems to be one of the "necessities", not a luxury anymore, according to Gary.
Because of our resort oriented community, where many of our 2nd homes are also rented, Gary sees a major trend towards adding a spa to rental properties and cabins Former property manager Gayle Prentice, Gayles Resort Rentals added, "houses with spas are absolutely a large calling card and still hard to come by in Big Bear. Houses with spas can easily increase their rental rate by $50 to $60 per night."
Spa Guy only sells spas set up appropriately for Big Bear - extra insulation for the cold weather, framed with treated lumber that won't twist or bend and possibly crack the acrylic covering in our severe weather changes. Gary always recommends electric spas. Electric is more efficient with the moisture we experience, and with time clocks now available, you can program your spa to be "hot" continuously.
If someone is interested in buying a spa, we can usually find an appropriate spa for their budget." He quoted spas as low as $2200, back in 1995. Editors note: Things may have changed over the last 15 years.
(c) ABC Media and Promotions,Inc. Unauthorized duplication prohibited. All rights reserved
Ok, want to be honest here. Connecting all the social networking dots is still a challenge. Somehow I received a response to yesterdays blog, but now I'm having a hard time finding it and/or posting it so you all can read it. I'll continue looking.
Some of the names have changed, but this story is still very informative.
(Jan/Feb 1996) "People come to the mountains to get away... from the noise, the commotion..to relax." "A spa accelerates that relaxation process," according to Big Bear Spa Guy, Gary Crowe. "There is absolutely nothing better than sitting in your spa in the winter and snow."
"Swimming Pool/Spa Age reports the relationship between spas and spa clientel has grown from more than a mere infatuation in the late 1970s and early 1980s into a much deeper and more complicated relationship. "Aging baby boomers, now saddled with children, high stress jobs, mortgages and muscle pains, recognize spas as retreats where the weary can enjoy the stress-reducing effects of pulsating 100 degree water, soaking away at least some of the physical pains that accompany growing older."
Who are today's spa buyers? Patrick McCarthy, marketing director for Caldera Spas defines them internally as falling into two market segments - OPALS (Older People with Active Life Styles) and DINKS (Dual Income/No Kids.) Locally, Gary sees buyers from their late 20's into their 60's. The majority of Big Bear spa buyers are 2nd homeowners and often they are fairly new to the area. For new buyers to the area, a spa seems to be one of the "necessities", not a luxury anymore, according to Gary.
Because of our resort oriented community, where many of our 2nd homes are also rented, Gary sees a major trend towards adding a spa to rental properties and cabins Former property manager Gayle Prentice, Gayles Resort Rentals added, "houses with spas are absolutely a large calling card and still hard to come by in Big Bear. Houses with spas can easily increase their rental rate by $50 to $60 per night."
Spa Guy only sells spas set up appropriately for Big Bear - extra insulation for the cold weather, framed with treated lumber that won't twist or bend and possibly crack the acrylic covering in our severe weather changes. Gary always recommends electric spas. Electric is more efficient with the moisture we experience, and with time clocks now available, you can program your spa to be "hot" continuously.
If someone is interested in buying a spa, we can usually find an appropriate spa for their budget." He quoted spas as low as $2200, back in 1995. Editors note: Things may have changed over the last 15 years.
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